Monday 26 November 2012

"The gladdest moments of human life"


“Of the gladdest moments in human life, me thinks, is the departure upon a distant journey into unknown lands. Shaking off with one mighty effort the fetters of Habit, the leader weight of Routine, the cloak of many Cares and the slavery of Home, one feels happier. The blood flows with the fast circulation of childhood. A journey, in fact, appeals to Imagination, to Memory, to Hope – the three sister graces of our moral being.” ~ Sir Richard Francis Burton


I first saw his portrait hanging above the entrance of the Ondaatje lecture theatre in the Royal Geographical Society Building in Kensington Gore last year.  I was there for the very rewarding London Trauma Conference but to me the building itself was reason enough to go.  This place was an Aladdin’s Cave of unpublished pictures, maps, and journals of generations of explorers.  On the walls were the names and pictures of great journeymen, the stuff of childhood heroes:  Cook, Livingstone, Falcon Scott, Shakleton, Hillary.  This one portrait seemed out of place.  The face and the style of painting was western but the setting hardly one of glorious accomplishment. The figure wore a tattered cloak similar to the ones I had seen among the beggars of Mumbai and was hunched in a corner of a dilapidated indian hovel.  His face was one that seemed to have a hard life stamped on it by a rather large boot. Slightly asymmetrical and a lower cheek bone on the left, thin, straggly black hair and a huge scar below the left eye that I learned later was from a Somali bandit’s javelin.  Most noticeable were the eyes.  Not the eyes of the down – and – out; these were fully engaged, interested, watching, wary.  So this was Richard Francis Burton.

He seemed to have lived several lives.  It was not a cushioned existence. He had been thrown out of Oxford, the army, various expeditions into India, Arabia and Africa.  He was the first westerner to see Mecca.  He spoke over twenty languages and managed to pass off as an Arab among Arabs for years, enabling him access to the lives of locals that can only come with having lived among them.  He was a prolific writer, romantic, poet, explorer and cartographer, and probable spy.  His experience among these peoples led to his publication of Arabian Nights and, later more infamously, the English translations of Perfumed Garden and the Karma Sutra.  His life seemed illustrative of Bilbo Baggins’ warning: “it’s a dangerous thing, Frodo, going out your front door. You step onto the road, and if you don’t keep your feet, there’s no knowing where you might be swept off to.”

One of the aims of the Long Ride from Singapore to Sweden (hereafter the LRSS) is to give singaporeans especially a taste of this sense of adventure.  We want as many people on board as possible to see and feel some of the things we pass through. Some of it will be breast cancer related, a lot of it will not.  But it will be an adventure – a journey of no predetermined outcomes and unknown experiences.  How to do this?  Well we’ve spoken to seasoned documentary writers from the major  television channel, who are thinking of coming on board.  It’s all about two main ingredients – the message – which is what you’re trying to convey – and the narrative – the means of keeping the story going. In our case the obvious narrative is two mad men on bikes.  And this week we’ll be having our third meeting with a prominent international foundation. They have an agenda of trying to broaden the horizons of singaporeans and also to make them realize a quality I’ve just learned about called CQ – cultural sensitivity.  Something we will have to put into practice every moment from the time we leave our own shores.  The notion that others may be given to consider adventures of their own from our little outing is actually quite exciting.

Monday 19 November 2012

The Art of Communication


Leonie Hill No Road

Getting into a cab I say, “Leonie Hill, no road”. The cabby smiles and says, “Yes, yes, very confusing lah”. It so happens I live in a city where there is a Leonie Hill and a Leonie Hill Road. The city planners are probably still smiling at their wisdom. Anyway, having lived here for a while it has become completely natural to refer to my address as ‘no road’.

Cabbies seem know exactly what I mean and it never fails to get me back home.  This is one of many Singlish solutions to my everyday conversations. The local version of English or Singlish takes a bit getting used to since it mixes Chinese, Malay and some Tamil, preferably with a Mandarin sentence structure all combined into one. Here’s an interesting explanation of it I found on the web http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jG5Gr-rjEWY&feature=related. As the video says Singlish has become the topic of many an argument in this small island nation. Some see it as an impediment to progress and others hold onto the vernacular as a matter of national pride. I, personally, have come to love Singlish for the purely Singaporean uniqueness about it. It has, thanks to human stubbornness, resiliently outlived the government’s every attempt to eradicate it and it is to me that which makes Singaporeans and Singapore less of a foreign country and rather more warm and quirky, and much more to my liking. 

Having lived and worked in quite a few countries I have come to appreciate the need to adapt expressions to local context, and the need to communicate using whatever means available as much as they might stretch conventional literary boundaries.

My first move from Sweden was to the US in the mid 80’s. After high school I moved to California for undergraduate studies. Four years in San Francisco were fantastic: the city, the people, culture, closeness to both sea and mountains made me feel right at home. Leaving Sweden with reasonable spoken English skills and an actual dictionary in English slang I thought I was well prepared. Once I got there I kept getting asked by all those I walked by, “what’s up?” This now ubiquitous phrase didn’t make any sense to me and I am a bit embarrassed to say, yes, I did look up a few times in the beginning. Of course I quickly picked up on the fact that this was the US version of asking about the weather; a general greeting to acknowledge you with little deeper meaning. I now ask my teenage children with absolute equanimity as they walk in the door, “What’s up?” (falling ever so short of appending “Dude” at the end).

Are you dizzy, madam?

After my undergraduate years in San Francisco I moved back to Stockholm to study medicine. Starting out as an intern with limited pay, small children and a new house I decided to do a bit of moonlighting as a general practitioner in the north of Norway. Norway and Sweden are in many ways similar in terms of culture, people and language as well as recognizing each others medical licenses. Norway is more or less just as large a country as Sweden but with only half the population resulting in a very dispersed rural environment especially up north. I found a six week job in Hammerfest, the world’s northernmost town with a population of 10,000 people and boasting one forest of 10 trees. This is basically tundra region right on the shores of the Barents Sea.

Medical practice in Norwegian did pose some difficulties now and then but on average I felt I was doing fine. Also my wife being Norwegian, I did have some practice over the years. For example there seemed to be some confusion with patients who had neurological or cardiovascular symptoms every time I asked them if they felt dizzy. But I soon got used to the blank looks, attributed it to my strange accent and since they did eventually answer me, moved on with my examination. A few months later, back in Stockholm I mentioned to my father-in-law the odd looks I received when taking history about being dizzy. He just looked at me and cracked up laughing, tears running down his face. What did I say?? I asked. Well, he said, ‘dizzy’ (the Swedish word I used) in Norwegian means horny. I still blush when I think of all the elderly ladies who came to see me for vertigo whom I casually asked if they were horny. No, I did not have my license revoked and surprisingly no major complaints.

35 drains to go

Presently working as a clinician here in Singapore, I am a bit hampered by not being able to speak Mandarin or Malay. However I do have wonderful support from our nurses who help out whenever patients are not able to communicate in English. Sometime ago I was counseling a patient, Mdm C, for a complicated procedure that would involve 2 other surgeons all performing different tasks at the same time. I wanted to make sure Mdm C was clear on what was planned and also what the postoperative recovery would be like since it involved among other things, tending to several plastic tubes or drains to remove excess fluid from the surgical site. The day before the operation, our nurse contacted me to say that Mdm C is well prepared but that the patient is a little concerned about the 35 drains she will have to look after. Thirty five!?! I ask. Yes, thirty five, says the nurse sounding a bit confused herself. I back track and go through the information I gave her and tell the nurse that I did mention drains but only 3 to 5. Needless to say I saw a big sigh of relief when Mdm C’s misunderstanding was corrected. The procedure went well and all (only 3) drains were removed with no problems.

Multi-cutural Medicine, as I have taught myself to practice does come with its fair share of lighter moments. Singapore, I admit has given me more than just the fair share both in and outside the hospital as I quickly realized, without Singlish, cannot lah.

Saturday 3 November 2012

Rules to Ride by

“You see things vacationing on a motorcycle in a way that is completely different from any other.  In a car you’re always in a compartment, and because you’re used to it you don’t realize that through a car window everything you see is just more TV. You’re a passive observer and it is all moving by you boringly in a frame.

On a cycle that frame is gone. You’re completely in contact with it all. You’re in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming. That concrete whizzing by five inches below your foot is the real thing, the same stuff you walk on, it’s right there, so blurred you can’t focus on it, yet you can put your foot down and touch it anytime, and the whole thing, the whole experience, is never removed from the immediate consciousness.”

-       Robert Pirsig, “Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance pp14”


Couldn’t have put it better than Mr Pirsig has.  In my mind what distinguishes an overland bike ride from any other means of travel is its intimacy.  The lack of any shell besides the clothes you have on to shield you from the elements puts you in intimate contact with the surroundings.  If it rains you get wet, in the tropical sun you burn, and when that 6 tonne bus overtakes you at 100 miles an hour you literally counter steer to not get sucked in to his backwash. Get caught in the rain and remember you are working at a 60 mile an hour wind chill factor all the time and the only way not to end up cramped frigid is to be on Mike’s BMW with its fancy wind deflectors.

Riding is also immediate in that what can happen can happen very quickly. Up the Malaysian peninsula the picture can be deadly monotonous on these well made, perfectly surfaced highways.  The problem is that such road conditions are not conducive to riding slower.  A proton saga pulling out without checking, a cow pulling out without checking, a sudden pothole – and innumerable other unexpected things can change the situation immediately.
Be sure of this – its not the proton, or the cow or the pothole that blottos the rider. It’s his reaction.  What appears to distinguish the good rider is that he or she manages to make the correct quick response to the change in the situation while keeping form. No mad grab for the front brake, no full lock change in direction, no wandering off at high speed off the road map. Staying on the bike is a matter of the rapid yet calm response. 

In view of the number of things that can go wrong in our little expedition, I thought of putting down on paper some “Rules to Ride By” in the hope that clear minded consistency will minimize the need for rapid calm responses.  We haven't had a good start. We’ve already broken the first most important rule that all experienced riders seem to agree on –

1)  BRING THE SAME MODEL BIKE.  

There are lots of reasons for this – same performance means more likely to stay together, parts interchangeability means less parts to bring, having both bikes from Suzuki would have made sponsorship a cinch.  As it is Mike has a BMW GSA1200 and I have a Suzuki Vstrom 1000.  They have similar weight and power and according to the wife they’re both just as ugly but that’s about where the similarities end.  So having done with that let’s hope we can keep the rest of the rules

2)  NO RIDING AT NIGHT.  

We took our time coming back in the last leg of this trip and eventually left Segamat just about 1700 to get home. It stormed and on unlit trunk roads with slick slippery oil coated tarmac and the wife on the back rule #2 has been made. Its hard to see where the road ends and where wildlife begins, and hard to see the dividing line from traffic in the opposite direction.  The wind chill was freezing and it did not help to realize this time there was no sunshine to look forward to that could dry us out. 

3) ALL RIDING DAYS ARE EARLY DAYS.

The Long Ride has been organized so that we cover about five riding days a week, usually with at the most two days’ stop except in some exceptional places like Darjeeling, Agra, Kashgar or Samarkand.  The truth is that there will be some places that are very difficult to leave at any time of the day.  The Old Smokehouse in Camerons is one of those places, but it’ll probably always be just a few hours away, unlike some of the places we’ll go to where there is just no likelihood that we will ever see again.
No matter how hard it seems we should get on the road as soon as daylight permits and get on our way.  Late starts tend to get us later and later, riders are less alert after lunchtime, and too much coffee tends to lead to the quick but un – calm response.  Be done with most of the day’s riding by lunch and start looking for a place to hunker down.

4) BE OPEN TO LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

George is the gardener who is partly responsible for the very gardens that made it a difficult place to leave!  We should allow for the serendipitous moment that is the distinctive of all adventures.

While most dates and distances have been studied as part of trip preparations, they should not be fully locked in.  we had initially intended to take the Gua Musang Road from Camerons to the Karak highway and then to Kuantan, but a late start (see rule #3) meant we needed to look for a shorter way to the east coast.  A quick chat and our very helpful hotel staff recommend a newly minted road from Ringlet direct to Kuala Lipis, cutting the distance by about half. (Thank you George and Vivien from the Smokehouse!)